How to make a Darcy skirt.

The Darcy dress has been my most popular pattern so far in my Daydream Patterns adventure. I’ve been enjoying wearing the Darcy mama dress samples I made for myself. I got to thinking though, that the shape is not for everyone. It’s a great shape for a maternity dress, and some of my testers made such gorgeous maternity dresses. Of course, it’s also a lovely comfortable dress for anyone, with the high empire waistline and flowy skirt, but sometimes you want to wear something a little more fitted.

I wondered what the cool cowl shape would look like in a skirt. I tried it out, and am loving my new Darcy skirt that I can wear with a T-shirt, and still feel relaxed, but have more of a waistline. The idea is to add a wide waistband with elastic around the top. I’ve added a stretch lace on top of the waistband, but you don’t have to do that if lace is not your thing. I have a black and white thing happening at the moment – I used a knit interlock with about 40% stretch. It has a fine black stripe, I may or may not have matched every stripe!

The pattern dimensions below are for a size 12 (US 8). I measured along the seam allowance on the bottom edge of the front bodice. (The measurement is the same on the back bodice.)

Cut the skirt out from your Darcy pattern, you won’t be needing the pockets. I didn’t alter the length on my size 12 pattern. It ends up sitting mid calf.
For the waistband, cut 4 of your fabric and 2 in lace on the fold.

If you are using lace pin the lace pieces to 2 of the fabric pieces. Baste around all edges.

With right sides together, overlock or serge side seams together, matching your stripes if possible!

With right sides together, sew the side seams for your waistband lining.

Now turn the lining inside out and slide it over your lace waistband, so both parts are right sides together. Pin around the top edge.

Cut your elastic. I used a 25mm / 1″ wide elastic, and for the size 12 cut at 80cm/31.5″. This is 2cm/ 3/4″ less than my total waist measurement. I then overlapped it by 2cm/3/4″, and using a zig zag stitch, sewed a square to secure the ends. Divide your elastic into quarters and pin to the top edge.

Overlock or serge your elastic to the waistband, taking care not to cut your elastic with the blade.

Now flip your waistband right side out. Pull the lining down, so the the lace rolls around slightly to the inside. It should lay 6mm (or the width of your overlocking/serging) to the inside at the top edge.

Pin the lining around the lower edge, baste and trim off the excess lining.

Make skirt up as instructed in the Darcy mama pattern, leaving the pockets out. When sewing the side seam, sew right up to the top edge cutting off the pocket corner.